Ch341a Usb Driver Zip
Otherwise the device will be recognized as a standard USB to serial converter. The manufacturer of CH341A provides a lot of useful things on the product page. Here are the files you can find and what they contain (the first two are the ones you need): CH341SER.EXE – self installing archive with USB to serial driver.
Martinhey guys does anyone know why this is everything is hooked up??Sketch uses 1,030 bytes (7%) of program storage space. Maximum is 14,336 bytes.Global variables use 9 bytes (0%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1,015 bytes for local variables. Ian CulleyThank you greatly for this solution, it works. I run Windows 7 64 bit and was trying for 5 hours (embarrassingly so) to communicate with an Arduino Nano V3.0 purchased on line before I discovered this post.
The trap for young players was not looking specifically at/or identifying the USB comm’s chip on the board earlier on. I fell for the surf the net here is the recommended solution for you. As soon as I had retraced my steps all the way back to the start and Identified the WCH340G chip is used for the comms I was straight onto this web page and downloaded the driver software. Following installation I was able to communicate with the nano and write code to it. I am using a USB cable from a cannon camera that I bought in 2004.
As a further test I changed the delay time on the ‘blink’ code and uploaded it to the nano. So thank you very very much. Randy MooreI have also found that these drivers work fine when connecting the LoLin NodeMCU V3 to my Windows 7 PC (I had to do nothing, since I had already loaded the drivers for my cheap Chinese Arduino Nano clones). I suspect the same will be true for the Amica v0.9 (yellow or blue PCB) NodeMCUs (both considered out-dated) and the DoIt/SmartArduino brand NodeMCU V2. Both of these boards also use a WCH CH340G USB-to-UART bridge chip.As an Arduino-phil I use the ESP8266 Core from GitHub to adapt the Arduino IDE to the ESP8266.
It uses a somewhat different tool chain to compile the Arduino C code into binary files executable by the ESP8266, but the Arduino IDE and most libraries are the same. The only stumbling points are:1.) The NODEMCU “Arduino friendly” pin names (D0 thru D8, plus RX and TX) don’t correspond with the actual ESP8266 GPIO pin numbers, so you have to make special arrangements to map the “D1”, “D2”, etc names to the actual GPIO pin numbers. There are a few ways to do this.2.) There is only one ADC on the ESP8266,3.) The board, like the Arduino Due is a 3.3V system, so things like voltage divider resistors, bidirectional level circuits (or modules) usually based on FETs, and other tricks are required to match voltage levels, especially the 5V outputs of TTL chips leading to the 3.3V inputs of the ESP8266. The documentation says the inputs are rated to handle up to 5.8V, and some peole get by without these level shifters, etc. But most folks when cornered about the topic will recommend using them (“better safe than sorry”). I always use 2 resistor voltage dividers or voltage level shifter modules. Another trick is to use 74HCxxx series TTL componets where “HC” means high speed CMOS.
On the HC series chips you can lower the Vcc supply voltage to 3.3V and not have to worry about voltage level shifting.4.) Some of the ESP8266 GPIO pin either have external pull-up or pull-down resistors which are used on power-up boot (or reset) time to tell the chip how to boot, etc. These pull-up resistors cause some devices like push buttons not to work as expected. So, if your ESP8266 does not boot after adding, say an active high push-button circuit, try switching things around and make it an active low push-button circuit (or vice versa). Usually that will fix the problem. You should add components slowly to the ESP8266 (one additional circuit at a time) so you know where to look should the ESP8266 suddenly stop working. Usually it will be a problem with the last circuit added. Sometimes you may see dimming of LEDs, or LCD displays, which is typically an indicator of overloading the 3.3V supply.
Anyway, it’s been fun, now to go off and test it’s WiFi capabilities.
There is a links to tested working software and drivers with this programmer.All drivers should work on all Windows versions: Xp, Vista, 7, 8, 8.1, 10 on both 64 bit and 32bit versions (x86).Main page drivers download from winchiphead: CH341PAR Programmer mode DriverJumper on Pin 1 and 2. To install via setup.exe you have to first connect the programmer.You have to first disable check signed drivers on windows 8, 8.1 and 10!(pull Shift and click to restart Troubleshoot Advanced options Startup Settings Restart again On the Startup Settings screen press 7 or F7 to disable driver signature enforcement.)Tested drivers on Windows 10 64 bit:; CH341WDM.INF; Driver for CH341 (USB=EPP/I2C/SPI. Chip) V2.2; WDM for Windows 98/Me/2000/XP/Server2003/Vista/64bit Vista/Server2008/Win7/64bit Win7; Copyright (C) W.ch 2001-2009.DriverVer =, 2.2.2009.06.USBVID1A86&PID5512&REV0304USBVID1A86&PID5512Link:preinstallation option:Drivers and libraries for Android, Linux and MacOS:CH341SER Serial mode DriverJumper on Pin 2 and 3.
Disable force signed drivers like described above.USB-SERIAL CH340 driver included too. Install manually or run setup.exe from CH341SER directory (not from install).; CH341SER.INF; Driver for CH341 (USB=SERIAL chip) V3.4; WDM&VXD for Windows 98/Me/2000/XP/Server2003/Vista/64bit Vista/Server2008/Win7/64bit Win7; Copyright (C) W.ch 2001-2014;.DriverVer =, 3.4.2014.08.USBVID1A86&PID5523&REV0304USBVID1A86&PID5523Link:Serial Drivers and libraries (Linux, MacOS, Android):downloads:CH341DP version 1.3 (serial mode)SPI, I2C downloader, TTL, RS232 for AT89S5X, AVR-MEGA microcontroller– evaluation board and example usesSpeed testing software.
If you’re looking for the latest software version (1.31 as of April 2017), and you want to support the author, you can buy it for 10 bucks.– Send email to, telling him you’d like to buy his CH341A programmer software.– He’ll send you an email back with a Paypal link, warn you not to pirate his stuff, and ask for a yahoo.com address – apparently because gmail will not allow EXE files inside ZIP to be attached– Once you’ve paid, he’ll send a ZIP file with a customized EXE inside (and drivers). The EXE has your name– Run the EXE, send him an email with the username and hardware id it displays– He’ll send you an XML file. “Import” that and you have a licensed, personalized copy. Future software updates are free.It’s a convoluted buying process.
Ch341a Usb Driver Zip Download
Still, it beats scrounging around for hacked copies, in my book.